Nasik and Trayambakeshwar-day 4

Devi

My last day in Maharashtra. I didn't know much about Nasik. I did know it's the wine capital of India and it's evident by the number of vineyards you see on the way there. Too bad I pledged abstinence 2 years ago. Nasik derives it's name from "Nasika", the Sanskrit word for nose. Legend has it that Lakshman, Lord Ramas brother chopped of Ravan's sisters nose there. And yes, you get to see where it was done. Are taxi dropped us off on the banks of the Godavari in an older part of the city. It's called Ramkund because Lord Rama took a bath here while in exile. The river was not kept clean which is a pity. People were bathing and washing clothes and there was much all around. It barely looked like a river. Our expedition to around 9 temples ahead was pleasant.

Kalaram temple

Bajrang Bali

The first was an old Durga Mandir. A short walk ahead was the temple of Kale Hanuman(black Hanuman). The deity here is black as he was angry after Sita was kidnapped by Ravan. The temple is spectacular and the architecture is almost Dravidian. It is reminiscent of times when temples were community centres and literature, dance, music and philosophy flourished withing their walls. The smaller Hanuman temple faces a bigger temple housing Lord Ram. This temple is of particular significance because Dr. B.R. Ambedkar, the father of India's constitution performed Satyagraha here allowing untouchables to pray there marking a new dawn in the country's history.
 We befriended a family of four from Rajasthan and a very friendly couple from Karnataka and their playful son. As unbeleivable is it may be, we squeezed into one autorickshaw and saw the rest of the temples together. This was my favourtie part in whole trip. History was staring us in the face. Panchvati, where Sita lived during exile is named after five trees surrounding the cottage which still stand. The cottage has been turned into a temple but still housed a cave where Sita was made to hide when Ravan threatened to kindap her. It's a tiny rock cave we are permitted to enter. The cave has a niche in the wall for a lamp perhaps and a marble tortoise, Lord Brahma's chosen vehicle and a Shivalinga where Sita used to pray. It was one of the most captivating sights I've ever seen. Visiting this place is a must for any connoisseur of ancient Indian history.
The chatty driver took us to Tapovan. where Laxman did penance, Triveni, the place from where Sita was abducted and the Lakshman Rekha. The Lakshman Rekha was a line Laskshman drew arounf Sita's hut enchanting it with mantra's forbidding her to venture out of it's confines for within it she would be safe. It would turn to a ring of fire if a stranger tried to tresspass but it now is a narrow stream of water.
A museum showing the life the exiled trio lived is close by and is worth visiting. Guava's are a speciality and worthy of their fame.

Triveni

Mum at the museum with some goofy looking soldier



 We then went on a long but very pleasant drive to Trayambakeshwar, on of the Jyotirlingas. Our driver asked us to take our shoes off in the car and we had to tread on a very rocky and very dirty path to the temple. A word of caution, cameras are not allowed in the temple premises so please leave them in the vehicle or with a friendly shopkeeper. The temple was another stellar example of ancient Indian architecture. But before we reached the temple we had through wade our way through a long serpentine river of humanity. It was Poornima, the day of the full moon, auspicious to Shaivas. It took us an hour to get to the temple. After the shrine to Nandi, Shiva's bull, we entered the sanctum sanctorum of Trayambakeshwar. I ran my hand over the cold stone walls of the temple and over the marble carvings decorating them feeling connected with the sculptor, a common man who must have stood there as I did many many years ago. A door before the idol had coins hammered into it by devotees who visited before us. I saw a coin with a crown with "Empress of India" written above it reminding me of a once Victorian India. The temple has seen history being written, the rise and fall of empires and the changin landscape of the city it's in, but I doubt there has been any change in the faith it commands in the hearts of the thousands who throng to it.

Countryroads

   It was a long day. We reached the hotel at midnight.

Shingnapur-day 2

Shingnapur is a small town near Shirdi. It takes three hours by taxi. I shared my taxi with others going there. The route is splendid and the pre Diwali weather was just the perfect blend of warm sun and cold winds. You can see the quintessential Marathi manoos, hard working and well mannered in his white kurta and Nehru cap. How they manage to keep their white clothes spotlessly clean in the fields is a secret only they know. The rest of us and the detergent companies can only marvel at them. The Marathi word for brother is "bhau". Using helps one equate with the local population better. They are proud of their heritage and pictures of Shivaji, one of India's finest Generals from the mideaval ages is seen in most shops. I heard people speaking in the classic "wahan jane ka" and "woh khane ka" way Lucknowites like me have only seen in movies.

One can't help noticing that everything from the tea stall to the hotels you'll encounter along the way have been named after Sai Baba. "Sai-Kripa", "Sai-Varsha", "Sai-Dham" and a million other combinations can be seen all the way up to Nasik.

the pilgrim



that's me at the trident



Shani Shingnapur is the ultimate destination for all Shani Deva devotees. Shani or the planet Saturn is the divine judge in Hindu mythology. He is known a hardtaskmaster doling out harsh punishments to those who err and also blessing those who do good. He commands a special place in the Hindu pantheon. At Shingnapur(which sounds like Singapore the way the taxidrivers scream it out) is known to have the lord incarnate as a 5 and a half foot black rock. Local tradition demands that only men can touch the rock. Women however can pray from a few meters away. There are no priests in the temple and one can pray as he chooses to. Guides outside help you out with the rituals but one must be cautious of being ripped off. Donning a saffron sarong I took a shower and followed the stream of saffron clad bare chested men into the shrine. A Trishul (trident) was the first stop. Then the rock I mentioned above. All the while chanting glory to the Lord Shani. After bathing the Lord with oil as is the normal practice I asked for blessings and returned to my mum waiting close by. As I've mentiones before, pictures are not allowed.

my mum at Woodland's

Sugarcane juice being made

my second glass

Shingnapur has no doors. Thats's right! The shops, schools, private homes have no doors. The locals believe that their town is blessed and any misdeeds are severly punished by Shanidev. One has to see the place to believe it.

After a tasty Pav Bhaji, extremely popular in Maharashtra, and sold as as an inferior replication of in the rest of the suncontinent I hopped back into the jeep and headed back to Shirdi. The sugar cane juice made in the area is manna. Its is made from cane which looked thicker to me than the cane grown in my state. Its was made by a bull tugging along a grinding machine instead of the usual mechanical crushers used elsewhere. It's Maharashtra's gift to manking and a musthave for anyone travelling to the area.

A word or two about food in the area: shirdi has an array of tiny eateries and big restaurants catering all kinds of food. Famous are a "Udupi" outlet and a "Woodland's" which are especially popular for their South-Indian fare. Dosa's of all sorts, idli's, sambhar, curries of all kinds, Punjabi and even Chinese food find place in the menu. Uttapam's are spelt "Uttapa" in Maharashtra. There's even a Domino's pizzeria and an outlet of Cafe' Coffee Day. My favourite was the Wada with Sambhar.

reading Gandhi

It was pleasant all day in Shirdi but it rained for an hour in the evenings everyday. And when it rained, it poured. An umbrella is a must. The lightening and thunder was like being at the battle of Trafalgar.

Another interesting day lay ahead of me but I wasn't as excited as I was about the memories of the day gone by. I slept carefree, which I can only do on a holiday.

Holiday in Shirdi- day 1



Eklavya's thumb



Sai Baba of Shirdi commands the respects of countless devotees all over India and abroad. His simple teachings in compassion and tolerance are of greater importance today when aggression and falsehood are daily headlines. A trip to Shirdi where he lived is a wonderful way for his many admirers and devotees to feel connected with him and and an exciting journey nonetheless, for others.



bhakta niwas

 I took the Pushpak express from Lucknow and got of at Manmad, a small town in Maharashtra. A hive of black and yellow taxi's at the station gives you different options to commute to Shirdi. I took a shared van(Rs 70 per person). It takes around 2 hours to get to Shirdi. The route is a treat with the Sahyadri mountains( Western ghats) seen at the end of deep green fields. The soil is black ( great for growing cotton) and and the vegetation is a shade deeper than the green encounterd in the plains of U.P. where I'm from. A moutain has had it's top eroded away leaving behind a boulder which looks exactly like a thumb. The locals like to call it "Eklavya's thumb" (Eklavya was askef to chop of his thumb by his teacher in return for his education in archery).
Hotels are in abundance in Shirdi. You can't stop counting them. I chose to stay away from this galazy of hospitality and took shelter in BhaktiNiwas(dwaravati) managed by the Sai Seva Sanstha. They provided me with a huge room with running hot water and changed my image of a Dharamshala for life.
Increased security measures by the Maharshtra police prohibit photography in the temple premises. Though this was an inconvenience at Shirdi and most other places I travelled to around it, the law was made for the common good and must be respected.


the hotel room

 A long queue leads to the main hall where the idol of Sai Baba we've seen so often in movies and pictures stands. It moves fast and the Aarti and devotional music inside is worth the wait. It's in Marathi but I guarantee people speaking other languages will enjoy it as much as I did.
Beleivers say that all you ask for is granted there and one reaches Shirdi only by the blessings of the saint. The sheer multitude of people visiting the shrine each day is evidence to the fact.
After giving obeisance a tour of the premises takes you to Dwarkamai(Sai Baba's house), Chavri and the mausoleums of some important people from his day. Dwarkamai is a large stone house, stark and plain where the Saint lived over a century ago. One can see the place he stood by at the window lost in contemplation, his cooking pot, grinding stone and fireplace where he cooked meals for his many visitors. There is also a sack of wheat preserved from his times. The walls have niches where lamps used to be lit. Imagining the scene a over a hundred years ago with the Saint standing by the window looking at people go by in streets lit by oil lamps took my breath away.
Chawri is his friends house where he spent many a day. His friend being a Muslim read the Holy Quran to him and pictures of them adorn the walls.
Gurusthan, a Neem tree where Baba was first seen meditating is an important landmark.
A Hanuman temple, a few mausoleums and a busy little market must also be visited.

me at the market

Shirdi by night

After the trip i had a refreshing cup of tea at the cafeteria and went to my room. I slept instantly, tired after the long day. But a memorable day it was.

Faith and Patience-Baba's most important lesson